Happy TravellerWelcome to Tehuantepec, a city and municipality located in the southeast of the Mexican state of Oaxaca. This charming city is part of the Tehuantepec District in the west of the Istmo Region and has a rich history dating back to pre-Hispanic times. The area was an important trade route that connected Central America with what is now the center of Mexico. Later, it became a secondary capital of the Zapotec dominion before it was conquered by the Spanish in the early 16th century. Today, Tehuantepec is still the center of Zapotec culture in the Isthmus of Tehuantepec and is the second-largest city in the region.
One of the most notable things about Tehuantepec is its women and their traditional dress, which was adopted by Frida Kahlo. The city has a reputation for being a matriarchal society, with women dominating the local markets and taunting men. However, political power is still the domain of men.
The city experienced a short economic boom in the early 20th century related to a rail line that was built linking the two oceans, but it was soon eclipsed by the Panama Canal. There have been plans to resurrect the line linking the Gulf of Mexico and Pacific Ocean, but financing has been a problem.
Despite its economic struggles, Tehuantepec remains a fascinating destination for travelers. The city is home to many traditions and customs that are centuries old, with many, especially in the market, still favoring the Zapotec language over Spanish. The center of the city has colonial-era constructions such as the Santo Domingo Monastery from the 16th century, which is also the main cathedral. The former monastery part of the cathedral complex houses the Casa de Cultura or cultural center. The Casa de Cultura houses the Museo de Antropología e Historia Zapoteca del Istmo, which contains archeological and artistic artifacts from the region. The museum has halls dedicated to archeology, ethnographic studies, the history of the Mexican Revolution and the Reform War, as well as items related to religion, regional dress, housing, and folk art. It also has a library.
The municipal palace was built during the railroad boom in the early 20th century. Covering an entire side of the main plaza, it today towers over the other buildings in the center. It is built in provincial Neoclassical style with massive columns and arches. However, the back of the structure is very different, as it is an irregular pattern of brickwork, which looks like it has half collapsed. In reality, the structure was never completed. Since 1906, the city has promised to finish the building, but never has. Even the federal government in 1975 announced plans to not only finish the building but restore many of the churches and plazas, but they never came to fruition.
The most important institution in the city is the market. There are four traditional markets with the most important of these located just off the main square. The market is the center of nearly all commerce in the city, with 95% of the goods small enough to carry sold there. As a result, the city lacks department, electronics, clothing, jewelry, and other types of stores. The city’s markets are dominated by women, known as Tehuanas, who make up nearly all of the buyers and sellers. Until the 1970s, there was a complete ban on men in this area, but this was relaxed at that time. Today still it is estimated that less than five percent of the people seen in the market are men. The historical reason for this is that traditionally women worked in the markets as men worked in the fields. Today still, men in the market can be subjected to taunts by the women who question their masculinity.
The city is also known for its velas, which are celebrations of pre-Hispanic origin that occur in each neighborhood in the Isthmus area. Each of the velas is organized by a mayordomo and includes a queen who is crowned with flowers. These velas became annual events starting in the 19th century with European elements such as balls or dances added. These dances have fabrics for decoration, like in Europe in the 19th century, but these have been modified to include indigenous designs, many laboriously embroidered by hand. For these and other special events, women may wear traditional Tehuana dress, which consists of heavily embroidered garments accessorized with large amounts of gold jewelry. This jewelry often contains old, gold-bearing coins and gold filigree earrings. In addition, local specialties such as various mole sauces such as negro, rojo, amarillo, coloradito, chichilo as well as tasajo, fresh corn quesadillas, and tamales are served. While they began as religious festivals, today, most have lost their religious basis. Most of these velas occur in the summer. The Vela of Santa María Reoloteca occurs between 13 and 18 August. The Vela of Guiexoba occurs at the beginning of the year. The neighborhood is divided into north and south into a friendly rivalry of who can bring the best musicians from various parts of the state. In addition, there are citywide velas such as the Vela Tehuantepec on 26 December, but the most important is the Vela Sandunga at the end of May.
Tehuantepec is a city that is rich in history, culture, and tradition. It is a must-visit destination for anyone interested in exploring
